From bold-colored scarves to the zoot suit in Harlem to the mass popularity of bold acrylic nails, Black culture in fashion has always been present in American history. Many Black fashion designers like Dapper Dan and makeup/lingerie lines like Fenty Beauty broke ground in a fashion industry where the Black presence was not always welcomed.
Shortly after emancipation, Black-influenced fashion would become mainstream. The Harlem Renaissance was a showcase of luxury through furs and dramatic suits. Later, casual flare would become the norm through streetwear and the dominance of sneaker culture.
The Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s and ’30s was a vibrant time when artists and political figures took unapologetic control of their creativity and style while enjoying life centered around the Black community in Harlem, NY. Zoot suits were the standard in Harlem in the late 1930s after young Black and Latino men loosened up the London “drape” suit. They added more padding, bold colors and patterns and, of course, way more swag.
Meanwhile, the flapper style, which included short, stylized hair, was popularized by Black women like Josephine Baker and made it into mainstream fashion.
Born in 1948, Willi Smith went from helping design clothing for the late Elizabeth Taylor to becoming a pioneer of “street couture” fashion influenced by everyday people. He popularized mixing and rematching pieces from a handful of designs to create several outfits.
The Notorious B.I.G. put the Coogie sweater, a brand previously unknown outside Australia, on the map in the U.S. by making it part of his standard wear. Dapper Dan successfully blended streetwear with luxury, notably when his studio produced Salt-N-Pepa’s iconic “Push-It” jackets.
The influence of Black entertainers paved the way for sneakers to blur the lines between “high” culture and casual style. Created in the 19th century, sneakers provided comfort during athletic performances but were rarely worn otherwise.
Then came Run DMC, who proudly showcased their love of Adidas footwear in videos and performances along with a hit 1986 song, “My Adidas.” Michael Jordan’s collaboration with Nike to make the popular Air Jordans quickly became a status symbol among urban youth willing to pay the hefty price tag. Now, sneaker culture has high-end designers like Michael Kors adding rhinestones to sneakers in their collections.
Black fashion influencers include designers, models, musicians and stylists. Some key figures like Run DMC and the music icons of Motown are well known. Others, like Ann Lowe, have not always received their due recognition.
Some Black designers hobnobbed with the rich and famous long before Fashion Week. Elizabeth Keckley, born into slavery and forced to negotiate the purchase of her own freedom, became a skilled and respected seamstress to powerful women in Washington, D.C., including First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln. Ann Lowe designed the dress future First Lady Jackie Onassis wore to wed John F. Kennedy in 1953.
Naomi Campbell, Iman, Beverly Johnson and Tyra Banks sit high on the list of Black fashion icons. Selita Banks was a popular Victoria’s Secret model, while Dorothea Towles Church became the first successful Black model in Paris after being hired by Dior.
Diana Ross and the Supremes presented a classy and glamorous image as they performed Motown hits in matching designer dresses. Beyond the sequined glove, Michael Jackson’s style characterized his love of military history, displayed in the jackets he wore.
Later, LL Cool J licked his lips as he made sweatsuits and Kangol hats hip. Darryl McDaniels of Run DMC wore Cazal glasses in the 1980s despite not needing a vision aid. And when Kanye West dropped out of college and into hip-hop history, he showed you could rap with credibility while wearing a rugby polo sweater — though he eventually moved on to stylish streetwear and suits while influencing folks to wear shutter shades they could barely see through.
Bold colors, vibrant prints and dominant earrings are the norm in Black style. Many of these elements were passed down from cultural traditions dating back to African ancestors.
Before Black women made hoop earrings part of their powerful presence, Egyptian pharaohs displayed their wealth and power with these adornments. By the 1960s, many Black women used them to display individuality and pride during the Black Power movement. By the 1980s, the hoops had become thicker and bigger with more engravings.
You’ll never describe Black fashion culture as drab, colorless or boring. African textiles include bold, handwoven prints in stunning colors and patterns. You see this essence in the zoot suit, hip-hop streetwear, hair scarves and storytelling of African-American quilting patterns.
Black women wearing colorful headwraps and elaborate hairstyles date back to Africa. After being forced to the Americas, their hairstyles constantly drew attention. The Tignon law in New Orleans forced them to cover it — which they did with elaborate, bold and sometimes beaded wraps.
When Bo Derek displayed cornrows in the movie “10,” she was credited for making it popular, despite Black women and little girls already having the style as a standard. Meanwhile, the Kardashians have remained controversial for taking on Black women’s styles such as box braids, fuller lips, makeup contouring and expressive nail art while making lots of money from them.
Just as the Beatles and Rolling Stones credited Black musicians who influenced them, so can others influenced by Black fashion. The question may not always be about enjoying the style and creativity of Black Americans but about giving credit and money where it is due.
Donyale Luna was the first Black woman on the cover of Vogue. Tyra Banks was the first Black model on the cover of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue before creating “America’s Next Top Model.” Known for her distinctive walk, British beauty Naomi Campbell was one of the six true supermodels of her generation. Tired of not finding suitable makeup for Black skin tones, Iman created Iman Cosmetics after retiring from a successful career that dominated the 1970s and ’80s.
Despite the presence of more gorgeous melanin on the catwalk, many influencers realized fashion still had a long way to go. The Black in Fashion Council was created in 2020 by Sandrine Charles and Lindsay Peoples Wagner to encourage substantial change in the fashion industry. In 2022, Ulta Beauty announced it would dedicate $25 million to media investments in multicultural platforms and $8.5 million in Black-owned and founded brands.
Throughout the Civil Rights era, Black people marched and changed history in their Sunday best, regardless of what racists thought. Today, Black Lives Matter and Juneteenth T-shirts are worn proudly year-round by African-Americans expressing pride and acknowledging history. While the law no longer mandates it, head wraps are still part of many Black women’s casual or formal wear styles. Don’t forget the hoop earrings.
More Black women are showing their hair’s natural texture in tiny afros, twists and locs. Remember when Viola Davis wore her natural hair on the Oscars red carpet? Laying baby hairs used to be a way to smooth down frizzy edges, but now women without such hair texture are also using the technique. Long and highly designed acrylic nails have gone beyond the hands of Black women. However, these now-trendy styles were once “ghetto” when only Black women did it.
Film, TV, runways and real life will continue to feature Black culture in fashion. Sustainable Black brands are creating diverse styles while being mindful of the environment. Expect to see more attire focused on Juneteenth and other cultural expressions. Black stylists such as Law Roach, Misa Hylton and Jason Bolden continue to help famous clients shine on the red carpet. Luxury brands continue to build relationships with Black designers, musicians, athletes and other influencers.
In other words, the Black culture fashion revolution will continue to be televised…and copied.
Kay Wicker
Haniyah Philogene
TheGrio Lifestyle
Maiysha Kai
Haniyah Philogene
Maiysha Kai
TheGrio
Associated Press
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