Under the helm of Black editor-in-chief Edward Enninful, British Vogue has become one of the most forward-thinking publications in fashion — some even prefer it over the more popular and preceding American edition.
The UK haute couture magazine aimed to go even further in innovation by putting a cast of all-African dark-skinned models on the cover for February 2022, including Adut Akech Bior, Amar Akway, Majesty Amare, Akon Changkou, Maty Fall Diba, Janet Jumbo, Abény Nhial, Nyagua Ruea and Anok Yai.
However, while some saw the move as revolutionary, others felt the creative direction of the editorial downplayed the cover stars natural features by muting out their skin tones and putting wigs on their heads that hid the real texture of their hair.
 
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When the cover was first revealed last week on January 13, hordes of fashion aficionados flocked to social media to give their critiques on the execution. The Instagram post received over 400,000 likes, including one from pop star Ariana Grande and a comment from renowned designer Marc Jacobs that simply referred to it as “beyond.” Cover star Adut Akech Bior, who got the honor of a solo cover as well, also gave her stamp of approval by writing in the comments that it was “So so so special.”
 
Unfortunately not everyone felt the same joy and appreciation of seeing dark-skinned women represented on the cover of British Vogue, but not due to the reasons that you’re probably thinking. On the same Instagram post, one user wrote in the comments, “We are too far along in the movement for me to applaud this. I was fearful of commenting because Vogue is a model’s dream so bravo to the ladies. Art directors, stylists, editors: this photo is gloomy and doesn’t highlight the models’ beauty. And the wigs? Really? Thank you but try again,” garnering over 300 likes from those that agreed. WNBA veteran Mistie Bass also took issue with the hair choice, writing, “I’m confused as to why not one is wearing a natural hairstyle???,” while also adding, “Beyond that that shades of black are incredibly beautiful!”
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Twitter proved to be way more critical of the cover, with many loving the idea of British Vogue using African models with darker skin tones but slamming the publication for the jet-black attire and wigs with hair texture more synonymous with white woman.
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